Oh yes, it's not like we wouldn't accept them being different, it's just that they obviously can't accept us to accept them being different and yet not being touched by the situation at all...
Search
Search results: 992 found, showing up to 50
Whether he has killed that one child of hers or not has yet to be found out. Right now, rape is the most grave of his alleged offences.presidentsheep wrote:
http://www.orange.co.uk/news/topstories/25588.htm?linkfrom=hp4&link=ticker_pos_1_link_1&article=index
"He faces up to 15 years in prison if charged"
Doesn't quite seem harsh enough...
"rape charges, the most grave of his alleged offences"
So you mean that rape is a more serious offence than murder?
Hang the bastard
He's a bastard, yes, but hanging him will lead nowhere - at this age, there's no punishment that'd be severe enough.
Oh yeah, we've got the cellars of doom.Braddock wrote:
Look out Belgium...Austria is gunning for your creepiest country in Europe title!
Seriously, even though that was probably meant in some ironic way, I'm pretty amazed about press reports all over the world.
Austria, again? Are we that sick?
Not really, however, it's quite amazing that so many of those cases have been of public interest. Especially since the Kampusch hype, it seems that people have found out how to feed the press. I wouldn't want to know what happens in others countries' cellars that's not made public.
About the trial for this man, I wouldn't want to be his lawyer, honestly. Then again, there isn't probably an appropriate punishment for him. He's old, imprisoning him for more than 20 years means that he'll for sure end up dead in prison. And I'm not giving him any chances to survive more than 5 years in jail anyway.
On the other hand, he's gone quite mental, so imprisoning might not even be legal anyway. I'm wondering, do such people get a 'therapy'?
I know of another sick story, where a mother literally chopped her two boys apart with an axe while they were sleeping. Not that these two crimes were comparable in any way, but the delinquents are. People would never have guessed both to ever be capable of doing something like this. Especially in the case of the two boys (who went to my school), not a single teacher knew (apparently, everything else would be kinda sad) about their mother being that wicked.
Said mother thought she'd redeem her children with that act, completely unaware of what she really was doing. Yet, she hasn't understood what she did after years, and she probably never will. Where's the sense in working therapeutically with her and in that way probably driving her into deep depressions and perhaps suicide? Such people should rather be locked up, but not in a prison.
Mm, yeah, whatever,
with kind regards,
Stormscythe
That's alright. If you don't need a quad core, however, go for an E8400 oder E8200 and OC them to 4GHz with a decent CPU cooler
So your guessing with 18°C was plain bullshit. If you'd only have told us earlier!PBAsydney wrote:
I had no idea what my ambients were, I just guessed at something like 18°C, +/- 5°C at least tbh.CrazeD wrote:
It is impossible to get temps under ambient with air/water cooling.
And about the hockey, we have two hockey teams here and it's a sport nobody cares about.
I always thought my temp readings were connect, they always seemed logical...I'm in denial right now.
Opening your window, getting an ambient temperature below 21°C (probably about 10°C in your case) just for the SAKE of posing on some forums with "extraordinary cooling" is suspicious.
To conclude: You don't have any extraordinary cooling and your crap is not holy at all.
No matter what program he'll use, they'll all say what his sensors say. And those LIE!.Sup wrote:
Ur right, sry Sydney*. Try this then:
http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
or Everest. Core temp was released today.
* wtf?
<sighs>GC_PaNzerFIN wrote:
Yes. I don't care about videos of ur temp dropping. Your sensors are giving wrong temps.
16c idle temps with that high vcore is simply not possible. Hell, do you want some screen that shows how I have 14c idle temps with my quad... you get the point...
You DON'T HAVE THE BEST COOLER IN THE WORLD AND UR CPU DOESN'T RUN COOLER THAN EVEYONE ELSE'S! Just damn temp sensors going crazyy.
How hard is it to understand. I know many great finnish OC gurus and even they didn't have that good temps with heavy custom watercooling.
I have had like 5 Core 2 CPUs. None of them idled under 27c even with ridiculous airflow from window.
Could we simply agree on the fact that my point is correct and your arguments won't lead anywhere? He's too stubborn to accept experience, maybe he'll just accept physics and reality. And that is: 16°C are well possible, however, not at a higher ambient temperature (regardless of the Vcore). And I highly doubt 16°C are possible at even 10°C and again, at this point, I'd fear about condensed air humidity (aka. water).
On the first screenshot, he's got a realtemp window open, again, showing incorrect values..Sup wrote:
Dude i'm telling you the last time: download Real temp!!!PBAsydney wrote:
More temps for you
I guess everest lied about my GPU temp, rivatuner reports it as 45°C not 37°C.
http://img33.picoodle.com/img/img33/4/4 … 907a16.jpg
Ambient temperature is about 18°C in my room I think.
edit:
BIOS:
http://img32.picoodle.com/img/img32/4/4 … 637120.jpg
I especially like the -2° at Temp3 (speedfan). Should we tell this poor guy that if his _ambient temperature_ drops below a certain point, condensation might well destroy all of his "amazingly cool" hardware? I think... not.
Could you please stop arguing about IDLE TEMPS OF 16°C at an AMBIENT TEMPERATURE OF 18°C?
That is THERMODYNAMICALLY IMPOSSIBLE! You can not cool any system below ambient temperature without a heat engine (such as a refrigerator) and simple heatpipe systems are far from that (especially that Asus Arctic Sqaure of yours, lol).
Fact is: Your temperature sensors on the motherboard are screwed up. None of your read temperatures is correct unless an invisible load of dry ice is infront of your intake fan.
With kind regards,
Stormscythe
PS: If you try to give any arguments in return to my posts, you fail and should try some serious water cooling. Put your PC straight into your bathtub, as your water probably doesn't conduct electricity, just as your CPU cools below room temperature.
That is THERMODYNAMICALLY IMPOSSIBLE! You can not cool any system below ambient temperature without a heat engine (such as a refrigerator) and simple heatpipe systems are far from that (especially that Asus Arctic Sqaure of yours, lol).
Fact is: Your temperature sensors on the motherboard are screwed up. None of your read temperatures is correct unless an invisible load of dry ice is infront of your intake fan.
With kind regards,
Stormscythe
PS: If you try to give any arguments in return to my posts, you fail and should try some serious water cooling. Put your PC straight into your bathtub, as your water probably doesn't conduct electricity, just as your CPU cools below room temperature.
<tadaa>
So, I'll throw in my two cents.
First of all, forget about all noise ratings, especially Thermaltake make up their numbers (or they simply have a weird measuring method).
SilenX fans are not that quiet either anymore, there are/were in the beginning, but somehow, these noise ratings have also been proven wrong more than once. There are better ways to spend your money, I'd say.
So, what about Noctua? Well, they are (and there's not a whit of a doubt) the unquestioned kings of silence. The S12-800 is literally inaudible and moves quite some air, however, you have to keep in mind that due to it's blade design it doesn't offer high static pressure. This fan is ideal for wide fin gaps, as for example a Scythe Ninja has.
Noctuas S12-1200, on the other hand, moves some more air and also with a higher pressure. However, if you're sensible to it, you will hear 48 CFM of air through any hole with 120mm in diameter. The rotor itself is inaudible, again.
So, that was the premium class. If you've got loads of cash and seek the ultimate silence, there's no way you'll end up with anything but a Noctua. Seems that their new model, the NF-P12 is not on the list which would be most appropriate for CPU heatsinks. By the way, just as a comparison, you won't hear a Noctua fan that's rated 20db next to a Thermaltake fan that's rated 14db.
If you're looking for some cheaper stuff, it's the Scythe Slip Stream series you'd better choose. As long as you've got a symmetrical CPU heatsink that you can place two 800rpm'ish Slip Stream on (or that Gemin II, which I don't like, tbh), those are more than sufficient. Also, Silverstone offers quite some nice coolers with their Suscool series, which you might want to take a look at aswell.
As a side note, there are indeed 'black sheep' among every fan series - and you might just end up with one that is louder than the rest.
With kind regards,
Stormscythe
So, I'll throw in my two cents.
First of all, forget about all noise ratings, especially Thermaltake make up their numbers (or they simply have a weird measuring method).
SilenX fans are not that quiet either anymore, there are/were in the beginning, but somehow, these noise ratings have also been proven wrong more than once. There are better ways to spend your money, I'd say.
So, what about Noctua? Well, they are (and there's not a whit of a doubt) the unquestioned kings of silence. The S12-800 is literally inaudible and moves quite some air, however, you have to keep in mind that due to it's blade design it doesn't offer high static pressure. This fan is ideal for wide fin gaps, as for example a Scythe Ninja has.
Noctuas S12-1200, on the other hand, moves some more air and also with a higher pressure. However, if you're sensible to it, you will hear 48 CFM of air through any hole with 120mm in diameter. The rotor itself is inaudible, again.
So, that was the premium class. If you've got loads of cash and seek the ultimate silence, there's no way you'll end up with anything but a Noctua. Seems that their new model, the NF-P12 is not on the list which would be most appropriate for CPU heatsinks. By the way, just as a comparison, you won't hear a Noctua fan that's rated 20db next to a Thermaltake fan that's rated 14db.
If you're looking for some cheaper stuff, it's the Scythe Slip Stream series you'd better choose. As long as you've got a symmetrical CPU heatsink that you can place two 800rpm'ish Slip Stream on (or that Gemin II, which I don't like, tbh), those are more than sufficient. Also, Silverstone offers quite some nice coolers with their Suscool series, which you might want to take a look at aswell.
As a side note, there are indeed 'black sheep' among every fan series - and you might just end up with one that is louder than the rest.
With kind regards,
Stormscythe
You've come across OLEDs?
Congratulations... <sighs>
Congratulations... <sighs>
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro
€22.18 (at that time)
P4 630 (Prescott 2M, HT, 3GHz)
Idle - 53°C
Load - 55°C (honestly, I think I broke my AS5 layer when moving the mobo WITH processor and heatsink to my new case. That's why I get so crappy temps... before that, I had 38°C idle and 47°C under load...)
overclocked? - no
€22.18 (at that time)
P4 630 (Prescott 2M, HT, 3GHz)
Idle - 53°C
Load - 55°C (honestly, I think I broke my AS5 layer when moving the mobo WITH processor and heatsink to my new case. That's why I get so crappy temps... before that, I had 38°C idle and 47°C under load...)
overclocked? - no
The HDT (heatpipe direct touch) technology brings some major performance increase. I'm about to say, even if there were air pockets, the surface of the plain heatpipes would be enough to cool the CPU better than any other system that's currently on the market.jsnipy wrote:
In the Kingwin, not sure what i think about the heat pipes seeming with the contact metal. Possible change for air pockets maybe. Other than its looks like a lot other popular designs.
Btw - thermal paste does indeed fix some things
No, it's not necessary (~5°C). And if you're not into it, let it be.aimless wrote:
Also, cpu/heatsink lapping. Is it necessary?
Oh, by the way - if you're really into some serious cooling, get a Silverstone FM121/FM122/FM123 or similar for your Hesatsink (the bigger one). It's modular (FM) and offers some nice performance.
With two decent fans, however, it won't be under $35, believe me. Plus, it's not that great.Bull3t wrote:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103026
get that one, it is leet!
I would not believe any specs. Even the Xigmatek specs are unrealistic.aimless wrote:
The Kingwin 120mm heatsink looks nice. It moves more air compared to the xigmatek one, plus the specs say its quieter.
Which doesn't say anything.haffeysucks wrote:
first, it's a VERY well known cooler.
Xigmatek/Kingwin are rather new on the market, but Xigmatek's HDT-S1283 performs equally to a Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme. Which is... quite nice.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6835124019aimless wrote:
And was looking at either of these two:
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro
Kingwin Revolution
Which one would cool my oc'd E6750 better?
Anyone have experience with either of these products or could recommend another cooler preferably under $35?
$24 after mail-in rebate
+
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6835103024
$8
Other than that, if you're really going for something with a 92mm fan, you should take this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6835233001 into consideration. It's just the same as the Kingwin Revolution, but notably cheaper.
Maybe you could also add another fan: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 835220001, if you're going for decent power at an incredible noise level and moderate performance while keeping your system acceptably loud...
With kind regards,
Stormscythe
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6827136126
I mean, you're going to spend way more on that stupid WoW.
I mean, you're going to spend way more on that stupid WoW.
but... they are not pulsating...
I don't wanna burst your bubbles, but the HD 3650 performs better for what it costs than the 8600GT... (= costs less at about the same performance)
Pulsating CCFs?02fxnmaurer wrote:
i want some cathodes (bright blue, to match the lights in my antec 900) that pulsate with the sound coming from my pc etc
anyone know any good examples available online in the uk ...and has anyone got any pictures or vids of them in action
02
What car are you driving, man?
The best stuff is liquid metal. Hands down.
However, liquid metal very often damages aluminium surfaces and therefore is not compatible with many CPU coolers.
I for myself have been using Arctic Silver 5, although it is not the best thermal paste available. That might indeed be Arctic Cooling's MX-2, which is, for beginners, easier to apply as you don't have to worry about the surrounding components as it's not ceramic stuff.
One thing about AS5 that I really like, however, is that it's very... solid. If you've got loads of time to spend, you can create an even layer that is so freakin' thin, thinner than you'd every manage a rather fluid ceramique based paste to be. By the way - this might sound incredible, but the temperature drop from pre-applied Arctic Cooling thermal paste on the AC Freezer7Pro to AS5 was 8°C for me.
With kind regards (and recommendations would either be MX-2 or AS5)
Stormscythe
However, liquid metal very often damages aluminium surfaces and therefore is not compatible with many CPU coolers.
I for myself have been using Arctic Silver 5, although it is not the best thermal paste available. That might indeed be Arctic Cooling's MX-2, which is, for beginners, easier to apply as you don't have to worry about the surrounding components as it's not ceramic stuff.
One thing about AS5 that I really like, however, is that it's very... solid. If you've got loads of time to spend, you can create an even layer that is so freakin' thin, thinner than you'd every manage a rather fluid ceramique based paste to be. By the way - this might sound incredible, but the temperature drop from pre-applied Arctic Cooling thermal paste on the AC Freezer7Pro to AS5 was 8°C for me.
With kind regards (and recommendations would either be MX-2 or AS5)
Stormscythe
Well, but in comparison to what a CPU/GPU draws, that's so insignificant...kylef wrote:
Anything that has a motor for the most part usually draws power from the 12V rail.
Let's put it this way: more ampere on a single rail + you stupid enough to grab it, while the PSU's on = more fatal. There is a restriction of about 22 amps for a single rail, I think.san4 wrote:
I've never fully understood why it matters to have single or multiple rails. I just know my vid card requires about 25 amps on all the +12V rails combined.
Most power supplies, however, don't really have split rails. Don't ask me, how that works, however.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6835233003
That is one hell of a nice CPU cooler. It's not as well-known as the Thermalright and Zalman stuff, but performs on par with the Thermalright Ultra 120 Xtreme.
You could also get this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 835124019, it's the same heatsink but significantly cheaper - and thus you can get some decent fan along with it: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6835220015
That is one hell of a nice CPU cooler. It's not as well-known as the Thermalright and Zalman stuff, but performs on par with the Thermalright Ultra 120 Xtreme.
You could also get this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 835124019, it's the same heatsink but significantly cheaper - and thus you can get some decent fan along with it: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6835220015
negative, it's got a 256 bit memory interface (192bit on the 8800GS) but fewer shader units.Bell wrote:
Isnt it just an 8800GS anyway, am sure I read that somewhere (with different clocks).
Martyn
So does Everest, probably. Core 1 and 2 are probably some 5-10° hotter than 3 and 4, right?max wrote:
maybe I should add that this measurements is with coretemp and that it reports 2 cores way hotter than the others. Not sure how that is possible, so probs the real max temp is somewhat below that
I don't know the architecture of the Q6600 in detail, but cache placement might not have anything to do with it... after all it's only two E6600 put together - each with its own cache. If only core 1 and 3 were much hotter then - but well...
Actually it ought to compete with the 8800GS (that's barely available anyway). Its specification alone shows that the 9600GT will be a lot better than the 8600GTS. It might also well be a competitor to the HD3850 - price- and performance-wise.GC_PaNzerFIN wrote:
nope. It is better than 8600 series (this card replaces 8600GTS) but is quite a lot slower than 8800GT/G92GTS/GTX/Ultra....Reciprocity wrote:
better?aimless wrote:
How does it compare to the 88XX series?
0.76" - and your girlfriend is really that excited? I would put myself into question, if I were you...Bernadictus wrote:
My girlfriend really, really, really, really, really needs this MacBook Air [...]
OMFG! 0.76" Thick.
I love how he hammers his keyboard when Bioshock loads although he admits that it won't bear any fruits
@ topic: That is strange. However, it might just be the little extra power that the gfx card is drawing from the PSU that makes the pwm-fan go crazy.
@ topic: That is strange. However, it might just be the little extra power that the gfx card is drawing from the PSU that makes the pwm-fan go crazy.
Simply be sure that - what ever kind of cleaning method you use - you disconnect all fans. You see, induction and such might well be a problem to your motherboard at 5000+ rpm (and yes, the howling of some 80mm fan under high pressure is sweet - but deadly).
I really really wonder... I mean, they could've got you a new Palit, as the manufacturer usually is responsible for the warranty. Yet, you get an Asus card? Strange.
Wait. The 4GB limitation only goes for system memory aka. RAM. Else, how would you be able to use a xxxGB external hard drive?
But!
Just as mobile phones do not accept cards beyond a certain memory size, it may just be the same with cheap card readers in laptops.
You should probably ask the support...
But!
Just as mobile phones do not accept cards beyond a certain memory size, it may just be the same with cheap card readers in laptops.
You should probably ask the support...
Gnah, give the midrange a P35 DS3P or DS4.
I highly doubt that you'll get anything back but the card itself. Probably not even with a newly installed cooler. They'll tell you not to worry about the temps and use it until it breaks - and until the warranty is void.
(if not, what about a new 8800GTS? )
(if not, what about a new 8800GTS? )
I'd love to see you clocking those 16 shader pipes out of nowhere']['error wrote:
cause an overclocked 8800GT = 8800GTS , and 70 euro's cheaper. And OC'ing that thing shouldn't be a problem with a cooler like thatFloppY_ wrote:
Why not buy a 8800GTS (G92)?
Anyway, compared to my 7900GTO that is
Naw, let it be. While you can still tell the colour of your socks within the mess or whether you're just wearing socks or not, judging from the smell, there's no need to tidy up your room.Freezer7Pro wrote:
I'm actually tidying up my room right now (OMGZORZ - Pics coming soon) and I will re-route my network of 8 extension cords, 6 Ethernet and in the 30's of computer power/other cables that are running over my floor.
Well, it isn't. I've been tidying - or well, rather mucking out - the network of the company where I worked last summer and it's way easier to follow a loose cable than following the one in the middle of such a bunch
freaks.
And how do they check where the cables go? After all, you don't see much within that bunch of cables...
And how do they check where the cables go? After all, you don't see much within that bunch of cables...
edit: didn't read correctly. i thought it'd turn back on again and off and on and off...
There are indeed fans that you could replace your PSU fan with, like this one: http://www.acousticpc.com/noctua_nfp12_ … g_fan.html
Just be sure to unplug the PSU before opening it. I don't quite know in how far it is necessary to push the power button, for my mobo - after a shutdown - 'empties' the PSU's capacitors.
Just be sure to unplug the PSU before opening it. I don't quite know in how far it is necessary to push the power button, for my mobo - after a shutdown - 'empties' the PSU's capacitors.
Mobo is a no-go together with that ram.
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=636580 <-- this one.
If you need 4GB of ram, get those
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=585723 <-- two times, you save about £50 and they're no whit worse.
With that spare cash, you'd rather get another sound card.
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=576204 <-- the "Xtreme Audio" is only a downgraded version.
So that leaves you another spare £25. I'd suggest some aftermarket graphics card cooling device:
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=627848
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=627856 <-- excellently efficient and silent combination - and easy to install.
And still, there's five pounds left...
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=700899 <-- well, it's a little more, but it's some really good value for money.
and... you like the case, yeah? cause I'd say, this one http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showprodu … ;subcat=35 is way, way smoother
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=636580 <-- this one.
If you need 4GB of ram, get those
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=585723 <-- two times, you save about £50 and they're no whit worse.
With that spare cash, you'd rather get another sound card.
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=576204 <-- the "Xtreme Audio" is only a downgraded version.
So that leaves you another spare £25. I'd suggest some aftermarket graphics card cooling device:
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=627848
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=627856 <-- excellently efficient and silent combination - and easy to install.
And still, there's five pounds left...
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductI … tID=700899 <-- well, it's a little more, but it's some really good value for money.
and... you like the case, yeah? cause I'd say, this one http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showprodu … ;subcat=35 is way, way smoother
Four heat pipes (S1) vs. two (S2) do indeed make a difference.
The Accelero S1 will not exceed 32 mm in height, plus the turbo module with about 15 mm that's 47 mm (o rly?). That said, it will probably take up 3 slots (card included) - another advantage over a 120mm fan here. Also, from the drawings, the S1 should not exceed about 14 cm that you need between your motherboard and the case.
Now, the thing is that a) the two 80mm fans without a frame are lighter than one single 120mm fan with frame (easy to install, and such) and that they b) cover about the same area as one single 120mm fan, yet they're (as I already mentioned) frameless and therefore will cause some ventilation that's greater than their diameter - which a directly applied 120mm fan with frame doesn't. If you, however, feel like taking a 120mm fan apart, cutting off its frame, you might well have a better solution there - yet, on newegg I haven't found one single silent, cheap 120mm fan...aimless wrote:
I was looking at that. I was thinking of using just one 120mm fan on the heatsink instead of the two 80mm fans, for noise and all.Stormscythe wrote:
Note, however, that you will want the Arctic Cooling Turbo module in addition to your S1, and probably some thermal adhesive to fix ram- and voltage regulator heatspreaders.
Get both. They're incredibly cheap. Note, however, that you will want the Arctic Cooling Turbo module in addition to your S1, and probably some thermal adhesive to fix ram- and voltage regulator heatspreaders.
23.99 (Accelero S1)
7.99 (Turbo module)
5.99 (for Arctic Silver AATA-5G thermal adhesive
21.99 (Freezer 7 Pro)
That's a total of about $60. Well invested $60, not to forget.
23.99 (Accelero S1)
7.99 (Turbo module)
5.99 (for Arctic Silver AATA-5G thermal adhesive
21.99 (Freezer 7 Pro)
That's a total of about $60. Well invested $60, not to forget.
Well, the motherboard is... not that kewl.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6813130098 ... will also make you happy (plus you save some money. which you could invest into some serious cpu cooler...)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6813130098 ... will also make you happy (plus you save some money. which you could invest into some serious cpu cooler...)
BTX?Gawwad wrote:
It would be great if the GPU's had the heatsink on top (i.e. on the CPU's side). Would make some excellent cooling when fitted with an 'open' after market HS. (not that box blocking outside airflow)