BF2S Forums Any Mechanics here?

hard to say, they can be pricey, last time mine died (i was in Britain), it was $200 my (trade) cost, and i installed it myself. Having said that, an exhaust shop can install one for much cheaper than a dealer. I would expect between $200 and $400.00 for a professionally installed one. I could give a closer estimate if I knew how much they were  And an exhaust shop can test it as well. BTW, when mine died, though i had a manual(so the shifting problem wouldn't surface of course), it wouldn't go up hills or rev at all. When it's cold it might be better, I have found that if they are chocked, sometimes (SOMETIMES) they run better when cold. and yes, they will get progressively worse. Mine took about 500 miles to go from "is that a rattle in the exhaust?" to : "man I hope I can limp it to work at 30 MPH in 3rd gear.


edit: according to www.partsamerica.com you can get an aftermarket one for about $150 direct fit, or an aftermarket universal (which is probably fine for you car) one which would require more labor  but still be reasonable.

FYI
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList … Converters

but don't just go to an exhaust shop and tell them to put one in, get it diagnosed first. While I am confident in my diagnostic abilities, I am also essentially diagnosing a problem I have never seen, driven, heard, smelt, touched, or licked. I am only going on the info I have coming at me through a DSL cable.

Last edited by jarhedch (2008-02-14 19:21:17)

GunSlinger OIF II wrote:

jarhedch wrote:

hard to say, they can be pricey, last time mine died (i was in Britain), it was $200 my (trade) cost, and i installed it myself. Having said that, an exhaust shop can install one for much cheaper than a dealer. I would expect between $200 and $400.00 for a professionally installed one. I could give a closer estimate if I knew how much they were  And an exhaust shop can test it as well. BTW, when mine died, though i had a manual(so the shifting problem wouldn't surface of course), it wouldn't go up hills or rev at all. When it's cold it might be better, I have found that if they are chocked, sometimes (SOMETIMES) they run better when cold. and yes, they will get progressively worse. Mine took about 500 miles to go from "is that a rattle in the exhaust?" to : "man I hope I can limp it to work at 30 MPH in 3rd gear.


edit: according to www.partsamerica.com you can get an aftermarket one for about $150 direct fit, or an aftermarket universal (which is probably fine for you car) one which would require more labor  but still be reasonable

this man deserves a medal.

/helps GS karmapad

Reciprocity wrote:

GunSlinger OIF II wrote:

how much is this cat converter fix cost?

I wouldn't get fixated on a cat, but they can run anywhere from a few hundred to a thousand buck for parts and install.

if it was in my rapair bay, the first think I would do is check the fluid level and quality, then I'd test drive it, then I'd hook up the scanner.  the  PCM could have detected a problem and put your transmission in a safe mode, which protects the transmssion from additional damage caused by a bad part.  this may or may not cause a check engine light, because legally a CEL only has to come on when engine emissions performance is compromised. 

you could be dealing with any number of problems, bad shift solenoids, bad pressure regulator, bad throttle position sensor, bad vehicle speed sensor, bad wiring, bad connectors, bad computer.  you could also have compromised hydraulic circuits, damaged clutches, a malfunctioning torque converter, or any combination of any of these problems. 

sorry to be obtuse, but transmission diagnosis is one of the more complex jobs in my business. 

take it to someone you trust, someone who will a do a thorough diagnosis.

would disconnecting /reconnecting the battery help/hurt any?

Well you're coming back, so just buy us all a beer upon returning.

Edit: perhaps half a beer for me since I'm not a professional mechanic

Last edited by Stingray24 (2008-02-14 19:32:07)

roger that.

Iam in 1st year mechanics at hat high autobody 2

keep us posted, i wanna know how close i am

does it back fire in anyway, try tapping the top of your carb a little, if you have any dirt in there it may be making your carb inlet stick just a little stopping fuel getting the engine, so hence the car wont ecelerate, so wont change gear

yup, but thanks for the advice

Stingray24 wrote:

Reciprocity wrote:

Rubix-Cubes wrote:

does it back fire in anyway, try tapping the top of your carb a little, if you have any dirt in there it may be making your carb inlet stick just a little stopping fuel getting the engine, so hence the car wont ecelerate, so wont change gear

It's a 2001 Chevy. 

No carburetor.

Though a rwd Monte SS w/ a V8 would be fun.

aint that nascar?

GunSlinger OIF II wrote:

Stingray24 wrote:

Reciprocity wrote:

It's a 2001 Chevy. 

No carburetor.

Though a rwd Monte SS w/ a V8 would be fun.

aint that nascar?

Well yes, but the Monte used to be rwd until the automakers figured out that making fwd cars was cheaper.  The new style Monte is still nice and I would love to have one, but rwd is where it's at as far as I'm concerned.  That way the smoke comes of the tires God intended it to when you do burnouts.

Yes and fwd cars have their own advantages.  I have several friends who have the same type of car you do and they all love it.

one thing i'd suggest for your car gunslinger, always keep a close eye on your coolant.  GM uses orange stuff called dex-cool that is complete shit.  if you get any leaks in your cooling system the dex-cool will coagulate into a brown mud that will cause all kinds of problems.  pay close attention to your plastic intake manifold gaskets, those bastards like to leak.  they aren't as bad as GM's 3.1L but the 3.8L isn't immune.