Modded 2x 80mm fans into top drive bay and a 120mm fan in the middle of P182. cant be arsed to take pictures
Problem: 2x80GB IDE drives sit top level of HDD holder. DVD drive sits above that. Distance between Master and Slave sockets on IDE cable is insufficient to reach from bottom HDD to DVD drive, therefore I can only have DVD drive and top HDD, or bottom HDD. Can't use another cable, only 1 IDE slot on mobo.
Solution: Suspend bottom HDD in the slot above the DVD drive by screwing two screws into the side of the HDD. One is at an angle. Pics when I can find my phone.
Solution: Suspend bottom HDD in the slot above the DVD drive by screwing two screws into the side of the HDD. One is at an angle. Pics when I can find my phone.
a hard drive at an angle is not exactly the best thing. use rubber bands, they do a good job of holding things in place and vibration is nonexistent.Finray wrote:
Problem: 2x80GB IDE drives sit top level of HDD holder. DVD drive sits above that. Distance between Master and Slave sockets on IDE cable is insufficient to reach from bottom HDD to DVD drive, therefore I can only have DVD drive and top HDD, or bottom HDD. Can't use another cable, only 1 IDE slot on mobo.
Solution: Suspend bottom HDD in the slot above the DVD drive by screwing two screws into the side of the HDD. One is at an angle. Pics when I can find my phone.
"people in ny have a general idea of how to drive. one of the pedals goes forward the other one prevents you from dying"
Watch it that they don't dry out and crumble though. Hate to have the hard drive drop onto other components and damage everything. Maybe backup with a few loose cable ties just in case.haffeysucks wrote:
a hard drive at an angle is not exactly the best thing. use rubber bands, they do a good job of holding things in place and vibration is nonexistent.Finray wrote:
Problem: 2x80GB IDE drives sit top level of HDD holder. DVD drive sits above that. Distance between Master and Slave sockets on IDE cable is insufficient to reach from bottom HDD to DVD drive, therefore I can only have DVD drive and top HDD, or bottom HDD. Can't use another cable, only 1 IDE slot on mobo.
Solution: Suspend bottom HDD in the slot above the DVD drive by screwing two screws into the side of the HDD. One is at an angle. Pics when I can find my phone.
i used old and brittle ones (i save them if i see them). they've been working fine for a while but if it does fall, the damage should be minimal (only about a 1 cm drop).some_random_panda wrote:
Watch it that they don't dry out and crumble though. Hate to have the hard drive drop onto other components and damage everything. Maybe backup with a few loose cable ties just in case.haffeysucks wrote:
a hard drive at an angle is not exactly the best thing. use rubber bands, they do a good job of holding things in place and vibration is nonexistent.Finray wrote:
Problem: 2x80GB IDE drives sit top level of HDD holder. DVD drive sits above that. Distance between Master and Slave sockets on IDE cable is insufficient to reach from bottom HDD to DVD drive, therefore I can only have DVD drive and top HDD, or bottom HDD. Can't use another cable, only 1 IDE slot on mobo.
Solution: Suspend bottom HDD in the slot above the DVD drive by screwing two screws into the side of the HDD. One is at an angle. Pics when I can find my phone.
"people in ny have a general idea of how to drive. one of the pedals goes forward the other one prevents you from dying"
Whilst cleaning keyboard, one of the metal rod retention clips for the spacebar broke. Thus, when pressing on the left side of the bar the key did not press down well. Fix: Bend the fin of an unused VRAM heatsink to size and superglue to keyboard base.
Mom's car was being a bit slow to start, so I took the battery out for some maintenance (hasn't been touched in ten years, lol). Of course, mom wants her car to work, so I took my hobby battery, which is twice the size of her japanese battery and European stadard and shoved it in there.
A problem with that is that the battery terminals on a japanese battery is half as big as the ones on a EU battery. I solved it using some raped starter cable, a bolt from a kick board, and some electrical tape:
A problem with that is that the battery terminals on a japanese battery is half as big as the ones on a EU battery. I solved it using some raped starter cable, a bolt from a kick board, and some electrical tape:
The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP
Freezer7Pro wrote:
Mom's car was being a bit slow to start, so I took the battery out for some maintenance (hasn't been touched in ten years, lol). Of course, mom wants her car to work, so I took my hobby battery, which is twice the size of her japanese battery and European stadard and shoved it in there.
A problem with that is that the battery terminals on a japanese battery is half as big as the ones on a EU battery. I solved it using some raped starter cable, a bolt from a kick board, and some electrical tape:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/ … ild053.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/ … d052-2.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/ … d051-1.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/ … d050-1.jpg
freezer you must be the most ghetto person on the internetzz
Now that's useful freezer
Freezer, cut your fingernails.
lol.... I can imagine what freezers car will be like... and the face of the dude making yearly inspection for his ghettomobil....
3930K | H100i | RIVF | 16GB DDR3 | GTX 480 | AX750 | 800D | 512GB SSD | 3TB HDD | Xonar DX | W8
Freezer, shouldn't you have started learning already?
Learn what? That ghetto mods work?Finray wrote:
Freezer, shouldn't you have started learning already?
The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP
The Freezer Mobile!GC_PaNzerFIN wrote:
lol.... I can imagine what freezers car will be like... and the face of the dude making yearly inspection for his ghettomobil....
Seriously though lay off the guy, he can make stuff work where most people can't, that's a good thing (as long as it doesn't explode and kill us all).
i think he might have meant to drive. not sure though.Freezer7Pro wrote:
Learn what? That ghetto mods work?Finray wrote:
Freezer, shouldn't you have started learning already?
Small hourglass island
Always raining and foggy
Use an umbrella
Always raining and foggy
Use an umbrella
I'm 16.FatherTed wrote:
i think he might have meant to drive. not sure though.Freezer7Pro wrote:
Learn what? That ghetto mods work?Finray wrote:
Freezer, shouldn't you have started learning already?
The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP
I started learning to drive when I turned 16, do you have to wait longer than that in Áland?Freezer7Pro wrote:
I'm 16.FatherTed wrote:
i think he might have meant to drive. not sure though.Freezer7Pro wrote:
Learn what? That ghetto mods work?
You get to start when you're 18.Sydney wrote:
I started learning to drive when I turned 16, do you have to wait longer than that in Áland?Freezer7Pro wrote:
I'm 16.FatherTed wrote:
i think he might have meant to drive. not sure though.
The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP
Gay.Freezer7Pro wrote:
You get to start when you're 18.Sydney wrote:
I started learning to drive when I turned 16, do you have to wait longer than that in Áland?Freezer7Pro wrote:
I'm 16.
I'm 18 and I've had my license for a year
Remind me never to go to Iceland.Sydney wrote:
Gay.Freezer7Pro wrote:
You get to start when you're 18.Sydney wrote:
I started learning to drive when I turned 16, do you have to wait longer than that in Áland?
I'm 18 and I've had my license for a year
The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP
Actually you can start taking driving lessons when you are 17 but get a 2 years temp licence when you are 18 and passed all the tests. You need to do an extra economical driving shit lessons in that 2 years time.
Its BS shit and costs fricking 300€ for what... I could get quad sli for that money (I gotta do it in couple months to get permanent driving licence)
Its BS shit and costs fricking 300€ for what... I could get quad sli for that money (I gotta do it in couple months to get permanent driving licence)
3930K | H100i | RIVF | 16GB DDR3 | GTX 480 | AX750 | 800D | 512GB SSD | 3TB HDD | Xonar DX | W8
Wow. Here it depends more on the skill of the student, how good a learner he is. If you are really good at driving you can get your license quicker, you have to wait till the day you turn 17 to get the license though.GC_PaNzerFIN wrote:
Actually you can start taking driving lessons when you are 17 but get a 2 years temp licence when you are 18 and passed all the tests. You need to do an extra economical driving shit lessons in that 2 years time.
Its BS shit and costs fricking 300€ for what... I could get quad sli for that money (I gotta do it in couple months to get permanent driving licence)
You get to start when you are 17.5 actually. You get to do the tests for the licence when you turn 18.Freezer7Pro wrote:
You get to start when you're 18.Sydney wrote:
I started learning to drive when I turned 16, do you have to wait longer than that in Áland?Freezer7Pro wrote:
I'm 16.
main battle tank karthus medikopter 117 megamegapowershot gg
Whatever it is in Finland, I'm happy I have my license
I have this old amplifier-speaker-thingy at school made from some crap from the 80's. Some electronic parts age a bit in 20 years, and need replacing every now and then. Those parts are capacitors, and they can be looked upon as really small, really fast batteries.
They're simple to use, as in most cases, more is better. They're usually measured in a unit called micro-Farad, or µF.
The original caps were on 1000µF and 470µF, but due to age, it was probably less than half that left in them. Now, the school happens to have a bunch of old computers lying around, which I'm allowed to slaughter if I want to. They've got some really awesome, big, high-quality capacitors from about 2000, but they operate at a much lower voltage than the ones on my amplifier. This can, however, be sloved by putting three of them in series; connecting them like a chain, with the amplifier connected to two different capacitors, with another one in the middle.
So, I've spent the last couple of work-less days in school at soldering together the computer caps and connecting them to my amplifier.
The hunks of three and six big tubes have replaced the three tubes in my hand. Three big tubes per little one:
1000µF is now 3100µF, and 470µF is now 1550µF
This gives my amplifier a lot more peak power to drive my speakers with, giving me a tighter and louder bass response, as well as much less interference.
They're simple to use, as in most cases, more is better. They're usually measured in a unit called micro-Farad, or µF.
The original caps were on 1000µF and 470µF, but due to age, it was probably less than half that left in them. Now, the school happens to have a bunch of old computers lying around, which I'm allowed to slaughter if I want to. They've got some really awesome, big, high-quality capacitors from about 2000, but they operate at a much lower voltage than the ones on my amplifier. This can, however, be sloved by putting three of them in series; connecting them like a chain, with the amplifier connected to two different capacitors, with another one in the middle.
So, I've spent the last couple of work-less days in school at soldering together the computer caps and connecting them to my amplifier.
The hunks of three and six big tubes have replaced the three tubes in my hand. Three big tubes per little one:
1000µF is now 3100µF, and 470µF is now 1550µF
This gives my amplifier a lot more peak power to drive my speakers with, giving me a tighter and louder bass response, as well as much less interference.
The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP