NeXuS
Shock it till ya know it
+375|6364|Atlanta, Georgia
Alright I'm in the market for a decent Amp. My brother has a 10" Kicked Competition Kevlar sub gathering some dust an I want to put it to work. I was wondering if any of you guru's of knowledge know a decent amount of intel to recommend a good amp. These are the standards.

- 1 ohm mono
- Atleast around 3000watts
- Good Reviews
- $100 to $160

I know it would be hard to find a decent one for that price but I'm willing to take the plunge. Halp?
TSI
Cholera in the time of love
+247|6003|Toronto
Yeah, save your money and get something decent later. Out of curiosity, what will the amp be driving? (pun not intended)
I like pie.
eusgen
Nugget
+402|6815|Jupiter
fuck 1 ohm, it is NO better than 2 or 4 I can tell you this from listening experience, I have had all 3. Use 2 ohm at most to keep your amplifier cooler (which in turn gives you more boom boom time before you amplifier starts to fry)

3000 watts? You people these days are insane. I have a 1500w (max), 750w rms @2ohms and a 10" alpine rated at 1500w max and that shit is LOUD.

Honestly, grab a DB drive Okur when they are cheap on Ebay, those bitches are beasts.

I own this model:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/db-Drive-OKUR-A … 45f3e8db77
Got it for 175$ when I bought it, but I have seen some at times for as low at 140.

Also, if you really enjoy music and sound clarity grab an amplifier for the car speakers as well, It was the best investment I ever made. Got a

I have a set of kenwoods (supposed to be top line right?) sitting in my closet cause the DB drives are way better and don't shut off after 30 minutes of use.

Own this 4-channel:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Db-Drive-A3 … 4aab653433

Great price at only $140.

and btw, the kenwood I have is a 900w rms 1800w max and the DB drive pushes harder.
Here is the model kenwood:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-KENWOOD-KAC … Amplifiers

Last edited by eusgen (2011-10-11 08:44:17)

twoblacklines
all grown up now (its boring)
+49|6230
They are all shit, im not even being a cock right now. You need watts RMS, a high damping factor (for sub cone control under excursion) and a low THD (distortion). You also need, for 3kw rms, atleast one run of 0awg power and earth wire.

a JBL GT1200D would do you for now, should get one for that price, secondhand.
eusgen
Nugget
+402|6815|Jupiter

twoblacklines wrote:

They are all shit, im not even being a cock right now. You need watts RMS, a high damping factor (for sub cone control under excursion) and a low THD (distortion). You also need, for 3kw rms, atleast one run of 0awg power and earth wire.

a JBL GT1200D would do you for now, should get one for that price, secondhand.
So this guy has no knowledge of amplifiers, comes looking for help, and you make a two sentence post about damping (excursion) and distortion. Yea he will really get that. "At least" is two words. You need watts RMS? wtf are you talking about now..?

wait, did you just recommend him a subwoofer? He wants an amplifier, he has the sub already. <_<

Last edited by eusgen (2011-10-11 17:23:13)

NeXuS
Shock it till ya know it
+375|6364|Atlanta, Georgia
My brother is really big into all and I can get all the knowledge i need from him but he has been really busy and hasn't really been able to point me in the right direction. I know RMS wattage is what really matters when it comes to what you need to push what ever it is. But I think i've changed my mind. Instead of a 3000 watt amp to power that comp sub he has I'll just get a <1500 watt amp and buy a different sub. So Could you recommend a cheaper amp in my price range? Also the only reason i asked for 1 ohm was for straight power and punch. I guess a 2 channel would work.

This is my brothers The video does it NO justice.

FloppY_
­
+1,010|6309|Denmark aka Automotive Hell
I dont understand why people think they need these massive subs -.-

Hate those douches you can hear miles away with their "UMPF UMPF UMPF"

Enjoy your hearing damage at age 30
­ Your thoughts, insights, and musings on this matter intrigue me
NeXuS
Shock it till ya know it
+375|6364|Atlanta, Georgia
1. Cause it's cool to feel it.
2. Not miles, some people are curtious to turn it down when your in populated area's or at red lights and such like me and my brother.
3. I don't listen to it for hours on end. Few minutes here and there. Both me and my brother have perfect hearing. I know because i get hearing tested all the fucking time cause I have to through military.
CC-Marley
Member
+407|6851
Alpine 3555, best amp I've ever owned. Too bad I sold it but my 4runner system is kickass.
eusgen
Nugget
+402|6815|Jupiter
And a capacitor is a waste of $$.
bf2gammer
Member
+14|6243

eusgen wrote:

And a capacitor is a waste of $$.
You must know nothing about audio equipment.
eusgen
Nugget
+402|6815|Jupiter

bf2gammer wrote:

eusgen wrote:

And a capacitor is a waste of $$.
You must know nothing about audio equipment.
Please, inform me oh' audio master.































People that most likely don't even have an audio system and/or have never installed one are trying to give advice here.
Jaekus
I'm the matchstick that you'll never lose
+957|5201|Sydney
The fuck are you going to do with 3,000 watts RMS for a fucking sub???

My bass amp is 300W RMS @ 8ohms, 500W RMS @ 4ohms. The cab is 800W RMS. It's a professional bass amp... and it is fucking loud.
eusgen
Nugget
+402|6815|Jupiter

Jaekus wrote:

The fuck are you going to do with 3,000 watts RMS for a fucking sub???

My bass amp is 300W RMS @ 8ohms, 500W RMS @ 4ohms. The cab is 800W RMS. It's a professional bass amp... and it is fucking loud.
Not to mention the sheer strain on the electrical system. I have a 1500w max 750w rms  mono channel and a 80wx4 rms 560 max 4 channel amplifier, it sounds amazing. But, I also have a high output alternator, rewired the car's main power wire, and a yellow top optima battery.


One thing to think about:
I also have a nice AEM volt gauge to "watch" for problems. One time the power wire from the alternator came loose and I wouldn't have noticed if it weren't for my volt gauge showing a drop to "11 volts". Ran home asap and fixed it. Kept me from being broke down and in need of a tow.
Jaekus
I'm the matchstick that you'll never lose
+957|5201|Sydney
A 3k RMS amp will run an entire PA, albeit a smallish one. It would still be significantly loud for an audience of around 200 people - and that's running a full band through said PA.
NeXuS
Shock it till ya know it
+375|6364|Atlanta, Georgia
Caps are a waste of money when you don't have a system that needs it. Like in my brothers video. The subs hit so hard that without the lights will dim and his battery guage all go down without it when it hits. It sucks up to much power. So the cap holds an extra charge to compensate for that. It's like your lungs o_o.

This is the sub my brother has

https://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/40000024/Images/5/MA-Audio-HK12X2-pair.jpg
twoblacklines
all grown up now (its boring)
+49|6230

NeXuS wrote:

Caps are a waste of money when you don't have a system that needs it. Like in my brothers video. The subs hit so hard that without the lights will dim and his battery guage all go down without it when it hits. It sucks up to much power. So the cap holds an extra charge to compensate for that. It's like your lungs o_o.

This is the sub my brother has

Sorry but thats a load of shit, it will just make your car lights dim when the cap tries to recharge itself.

the ONLY use of powercaps is for sound quality, that is, apparently, amplifiers sound better when using batteries to power them than an alternator powering batteries, in that the power does not fluctuate from a cap, thats the only reason to have one and without an 80k dollar sound system you wont ever hear the difference.

You need to get a higher output alt and then your lights wont dim.
eusgen
Nugget
+402|6815|Jupiter
High output alternator and yellow top optima = no headlight flash. I repeat, a capacitor is a complete waste of fucking money.
NeXuS
Shock it till ya know it
+375|6364|Atlanta, Georgia
My brother has the best alternator you can buy for his tahoe and two yellow top optima's lol and it still did it...

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_c … citors.htm

Do you guys really know as much as you say you do about this kind of stuff?

Last edited by NeXuS (2011-10-21 13:58:24)

eusgen
Nugget
+402|6815|Jupiter
The site you refered to even says

"Will a Power Capacitor Help You?

I don't know, it depends. How's that for an answer? The degree of help a power capacitor will give you depends on your specific vehicle, car audio amplifier(s) current draw, music type and listening habits."

Basically, no.

Last edited by eusgen (2011-10-21 19:44:30)

NeXuS
Shock it till ya know it
+375|6364|Atlanta, Georgia
I've already agreed with you saying caps are a waste of money if you don't need them.
twoblacklines
all grown up now (its boring)
+49|6230

NeXuS wrote:

My brother has the best alternator you can buy for his tahoe and two yellow top optima's lol and it still did it...

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_c … citors.htm

Do you guys really know as much as you say you do about this kind of stuff?
Yes. There will be something wrong with his system if his lights dim with a pair of batteries and a HO alt.

what amp is it? a 210A alt will run 4kw rms comfortably.
NeXuS
Shock it till ya know it
+375|6364|Atlanta, Georgia
twoblacklines
all grown up now (its boring)
+49|6230
I ran a powerbass 3kwrms amp on a 55A alternator, one leisure battery and one run of 0 awg and my lights didnt dim. It has issues.

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