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Hunter/Jumper
Member
+117|5477

krazed wrote:

D&ST trawler captain
what's your title ?
Hunter/Jumper
Member
+117|5477

UnkleRukus wrote:

I really wanna know what goes through your mind when you make paragraphs and such.
I really wanna know what goes through your mind when you follow me around.
Now respond " Get a Life " lol !
DonFck
Hibernator
+3,227|5754|Finland

Why do you ask a gaming forum? Wouldn't it make more sense to contact a professional contractor who can answer these kinds of questions directly?
I need around tree fiddy.
Mekstizzle
WALKER
+3,610|5744|London, England
Some people don't like to hire an entire committee just to get something done
PrivateVendetta
I DEMAND XMAS THEME
+704|5314|Roma
But if they have no idea...
https://static.bf2s.com/files/user/29388/stopped%20scrolling%21.png
Hunter/Jumper
Member
+117|5477

DonFck wrote:

Why do you ask a gaming forum? Wouldn't it make more sense to contact a professional contractor who can answer these kinds of questions directly?
Read the thread for that answer.I knew there were people here with experience and a wealth of knowledge. Of course I would see a doctor but I might ask people here if they ever had (XXXXX) disease. I actually think I did once. Professional people want to get in and out not educate people who just want to know how something works out of curiosity. I was curios that I could find no Formulas on this particular subject. If you think I'm going to be out there with a shovel - I wont. But I probably will be standing in the way from time to time.
Dilbert_X
The X stands for
+1,757|5229|eXtreme to the maX

Hunter/Jumper wrote:

Thanks !
I am not doing the ReBar but I'll ask him. Out of curiosity. I always saw them tie Re bar together with heavy wire spot welded.  How do they Ground that Green plastic covered Re Bar ? also is The Green Re Bar falling out of Favor ? I don't see it on big jobs anymore ? The new Stuff looks like SS or Aluminum ?
No idea, is it galvanised? As I said I reckon a key part will be how they fix the rebar to the rock, you need that specified.

I saw a show where someone used smooth steel rod as rebar......
#Freed Britney !
13rin
Member
+977|5602

Roger Lesboules wrote:

[email protected] wrote:

Because rdx brings up the point that your neighbors kids might end up dead because of your shoddy workmanship, I'll give you a real answer. If this is as I am visualizing it in my head, and you're planning a retaining wall to hold back water, you not only need to brace it correctly, you're more than likely going to have to drive piles into the bedrock as well. Bracing protects it from toppling, piling protects the bottom from sliding out. This is not a project that you want to DIY.
Indeed, if we picture the same thing....you really want to have someone used to do that kind of work do it.
That way there's someone else to go after if it ever fails...
I stood in line for four hours. They better give me a Wal-Mart gift card, or something.  - Rodney Booker, Job Fair attendee.
Trotskygrad
бля
+354|5122|Vortex Ring State
what's the estimated load on the wall?

(critical question here)
PrivateVendetta
I DEMAND XMAS THEME
+704|5314|Roma
I imagine about 3 hectares from what he's said
https://static.bf2s.com/files/user/29388/stopped%20scrolling%21.png
Dilbert_X
The X stands for
+1,757|5229|eXtreme to the maX

Trotskygrad wrote:

what's the estimated load on the wall?

(critical question here)
Well he already said the height is X and its retaining water so thats all you need.
#Freed Britney !
Trotskygrad
бля
+354|5122|Vortex Ring State

Dilbert_X wrote:

Trotskygrad wrote:

what's the estimated load on the wall?

(critical question here)
Well he already said the height is X and its retaining water so thats all you need.
what's the area of the wall that will be touching the water?
Dilbert_X
The X stands for
+1,757|5229|eXtreme to the maX

Trotskygrad wrote:

Dilbert_X wrote:

Trotskygrad wrote:

what's the estimated load on the wall?

(critical question here)
Well he already said the height is X and its retaining water so thats all you need.
what's the area of the wall that will be touching the water?
Doesn't matter, its a two dimensional problem really, assuming its wide compared with its height its a 2d vertical cantilever, the end form doesn't matter, nor does the area.

eg
https://faculty.washington.edu/nemati/3gorges/3g02.jpg

Otherwise if we are going to assume the vertical ends are fixed into rock then we need all the dimensions.

eg
https://www.visitingdc.com/images/hoover-dam-directions.jpg
Curving will gain some free strength, but needs to be done just right.

Last edited by Dilbert_X (2010-09-23 06:29:57)

#Freed Britney !
Trotskygrad
бля
+354|5122|Vortex Ring State

Dilbert_X wrote:

Trotskygrad wrote:

Dilbert_X wrote:


Well he already said the height is X and its retaining water so thats all you need.
what's the area of the wall that will be touching the water?
Doesn't matter, its a two dimensional problem really, assuming its wide compared with its height its a 2d vertical cantilever, the end form doesn't matter, nor does the area.
sorry, should've said shape
Dilbert_X
The X stands for
+1,757|5229|eXtreme to the maX
Its safest to assume its a 2d problem, at least to begin with.
#Freed Britney !
UnkleRukus
That Guy
+236|4159|Massachusetts, USA

PrivateVendetta wrote:

Where did this guy come from all of a sudden anyway posting in EE?
Been hiding in D&ST or has he just come out of the woodwork to troll with 'serious questions'?
She, apparently it's a chick.
If the women don't find ya handsome. They should at least find ya handy.
Trotskygrad
бля
+354|5122|Vortex Ring State

UnkleRukus wrote:

PrivateVendetta wrote:

Where did this guy come from all of a sudden anyway posting in EE?
Been hiding in D&ST or has he just come out of the woodwork to troll with 'serious questions'?
She, apparently it's a chick.
Iknorite!
eleven bravo
Member
+1,399|4382|foggy bottom
I dont trust dams
Tu Stultus Es
Trotskygrad
бля
+354|5122|Vortex Ring State

eleven bravo wrote:

I dont trust dams
damn damz

beein targeetz for terrurists n all that shizzle

Last edited by Trotskygrad (2010-09-23 08:31:54)

mtb0minime
minimember
+2,418|5777

I'd highly recommend re-bar in the concrete wall so it doesn't crack and to play it safe. You need some added tensile strength in there since concrete is mainly only good for its compressive strength.
Hunter/Jumper
Member
+117|5477
One last thing ! Not that this has any bearing on the information and help provided.

I have seen cast concrete water tanks and about 10 feet across, Round and maybe 4 feet high. They must have had some kind of formula to calculate the thickness needed. They were pretty thin as I recall the wall being 5 to 7 inches thick. They broke up pretty easy too.
rdx-fx
...
+955|5714
There's a limitless variety of concrete formulations. 
Even with the same exact pile of dry components, you can get wildly different strengths by varying the water content, mixing properties, temperatures, or post-pour vibration.

Don't use the thickness of a precast concrete tank as a gauge on what your concrete thickness is.  You don't know their concrete mix, their aggregate blend, their additives (plasticizer, etc), their water quantity, their mix time, their cure time, their rebar frame setup, etc etc etc.

This is the reason you're not finding any easy 1-2-3 calculations.

There are charts for these very topics.
They exist on the desks of people who are licensed and insured to do such work.

Seriously, if it were a bird feeder, I'd tell you to grab some Sacrete and go nuts.
It's not, though.  It's probably 20,000 gallons of water and a few tons of concrete, with people other than you betting their life on the structural integrity of the design.

If the pool guys you're talking to can't wrap their heads around what you want, use your Google-Fu to find a pool builder that does know how to build such a structure.  It sounds like a simple 3/4 reservoir, with the last 1/4 appearing to be part of the existing landscape.  It's not a shuttle launch pad, it's not a difficult design- but it is a design that a qualified, licensed, and insured outfit should build.  Most outfits are going to want to dig into the existing rock structure to somehow anchor the design - this is almost assured.  Don't no-go them outright for that.

Structurally and financially, a completely in-ground pool or a completely above-ground pool is going to be the path of least resistance.  Even with the rock clearing, landscaping, and additional site prep costs, going totally above-ground or in-ground will be cheaper, most likely.
Dilbert_X
The X stands for
+1,757|5229|eXtreme to the maX

Hunter/Jumper wrote:

One last thing ! Not that this has any bearing on the information and help provided.

I have seen cast concrete water tanks and about 10 feet across, Round and maybe 4 feet high. They must have had some kind of formula to calculate the thickness needed. They were pretty thin as I recall the wall being 5 to 7 inches thick. They broke up pretty easy too.
Shape is as important as thickness, its a combination.
Water tanks have a continuous wall, which is very different from a dam.

Find an engineer, that is all.
#Freed Britney !
Trotskygrad
бля
+354|5122|Vortex Ring State

rdx-fx wrote:

There's a limitless variety of concrete formulations. 
Even with the same exact pile of dry components, you can get wildly different strengths by varying the water content, mixing properties, temperatures, or post-pour vibration.

Don't use the thickness of a precast concrete tank as a gauge on what your concrete thickness is.  You don't know their concrete mix, their aggregate blend, their additives (plasticizer, etc), their water quantity, their mix time, their cure time, their rebar frame setup, etc etc etc.

This is the reason you're not finding any easy 1-2-3 calculations.

There are charts for these very topics.
They exist on the desks of people who are licensed and insured to do such work.

Seriously, if it were a bird feeder, I'd tell you to grab some Sacrete and go nuts.
It's not, though.  It's probably 20,000 gallons of water and a few tons of concrete, with people other than you betting their life on the structural integrity of the design.

If the pool guys you're talking to can't wrap their heads around what you want, use your Google-Fu to find a pool builder that does know how to build such a structure.  It sounds like a simple 3/4 reservoir, with the last 1/4 appearing to be part of the existing landscape.  It's not a shuttle launch pad, it's not a difficult design- but it is a design that a qualified, licensed, and insured outfit should build.  Most outfits are going to want to dig into the existing rock structure to somehow anchor the design - this is almost assured.  Don't no-go them outright for that.

Structurally and financially, a completely in-ground pool or a completely above-ground pool is going to be the path of least resistance.  Even with the rock clearing, landscaping, and additional site prep costs, going totally above-ground or in-ground will be cheaper, most likely.
so if I was going to build a bunker, what additives should I use?
13urnzz
Banned
+5,830|5620

about >9000 troops.

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