Mitch
16 more years
+877|6518|South Florida
Ok so recently my 5-speed transmission has been shifting not smoothly. I dont want to call it a grinding sound, but its a very unlubricated feeling when shifting between gears. Also, its been harder and harder to shift into first gear. i have to hold it for a second before it pushes in. Its got a very metal uncomfortably sliding over metal feel.

What could this be? I looked under the shifter but thats all well lubricated so its something farther in. Would low trans fluid cause this? Please dont just say that because it sounds like a good answer. I havent checked the trans fluid yet. Supposed to be selling this car tonight and i dont want him to not buy because of this..

thanks
15 more years! 15 more years!
Morpheus
This shit still going?
+508|5992|The Mitten
i would check transmission fluid, tbh.
I mean, it sounds like a good idea, so...
EE (hats
PrivateVendetta
I DEMAND XMAS THEME
+704|6184|Roma
Clutch.
Mine used to do that. It was wearing out and could be fixed for a bit by tightening a screw or something under the bonnet.
Then eventually it wouldn't get better and went all together.
https://static.bf2s.com/files/user/29388/stopped%20scrolling%21.png
PrivateVendetta
I DEMAND XMAS THEME
+704|6184|Roma
Mine used to be fucking hard to get into first, easier for 2nd and so on. As it got worse they all got worse together.
If it's just started, you might get another 4 months out of it by tightening it depending on how much you drive it. From my experiences anyway.

Last edited by PrivateVendetta (2010-09-08 08:48:17)

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Mitch
16 more years
+877|6518|South Florida

PrivateVendetta wrote:

Mine used to be fucking hard to get into first, easier for 2nd and so on. As it got worse they all got worse together.
If it's just started, you might get another 4 months out of it by tightening it depending on how much you drive it. From my experiences anyway.
how do i tighten it, what exactly am i tightening? i just need to get it sold
15 more years! 15 more years!
PrivateVendetta
I DEMAND XMAS THEME
+704|6184|Roma

Mitch wrote:

PrivateVendetta wrote:

Mine used to be fucking hard to get into first, easier for 2nd and so on. As it got worse they all got worse together.
If it's just started, you might get another 4 months out of it by tightening it depending on how much you drive it. From my experiences anyway.
how do i tighten it, what exactly am i tightening? i just need to get it sold
Depends what car you have.
In my VW there was a sort of long screw thing sticking up under the bonnet below the engine with a big plastic nut on it.
Screw it down to tighten, up to loosen. Will have to fine tune it though.

But that was for my car.
https://static.bf2s.com/files/user/29388/stopped%20scrolling%21.png
PrivateVendetta
I DEMAND XMAS THEME
+704|6184|Roma
Tell me about it.
I hate Mechanics. Last time they tried to tell me my 'catalytic converter' needed replacing
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Mitch
16 more years
+877|6518|South Florida
https://imagemacros.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/oh_you.jpg
thanks for atleast some help
15 more years! 15 more years!
eleven bravo
Member
+1,399|5251|foggy bottom

PrivateVendetta wrote:

Tell me about it.
I hate Mechanics. Last time they tried to tell me my 'catalytic converter' needed replacing
http://forums.bf2s.com/viewtopic.php?id=93399&p=1
Tu Stultus Es
King_County_Downy
shitfaced
+2,791|6589|Seattle

I would guess clutch. There's not much to a manual transmission other than clutch pad and clutch cylinder.
Sober enough to know what I'm doing, drunk enough to really enjoy doing it
Dilbert_X
The X stands for
+1,810|6098|eXtreme to the maX
Check the clutch.
If its cable operated may need adjustment, or could be on its last strand of wire and about to break in which case the cable needs replacing.
If its hydraulic check the fluid level and check for leaks. This may be separate or built into the brake fluid reservoir. Could be an internal fault in one of the pistons but thats unusual.
Русский военный корабль, иди на хуй!
alexb
<3
+590|5932|Kentucky, USA

Clutch, or low / dirty / burnt transmission fluid.
Dilbert_X
The X stands for
+1,810|6098|eXtreme to the maX
Its very hard to 'burn' fluid in a manual....
Русский военный корабль, иди на хуй!
Reciprocity
Member
+721|6573|the dank(super) side of Oregon
what kind of heap of shit is this?  fwd? rwd?
alexb
<3
+590|5932|Kentucky, USA

Dilbert_X wrote:

Its very hard to 'burn' fluid in a manual....
Overheat.
Dilbert_X
The X stands for
+1,810|6098|eXtreme to the maX

alexb wrote:

Dilbert_X wrote:

Its very hard to 'burn' fluid in a manual....
Overheat.
And how do you do that in a manual?
Русский военный корабль, иди на хуй!
Reciprocity
Member
+721|6573|the dank(super) side of Oregon

Dilbert_X wrote:

alexb wrote:

Dilbert_X wrote:

Its very hard to 'burn' fluid in a manual....
Overheat.
And how do you do that in a manual?
the only time I see that is when the fluid level is very low.  The trans gets hot and scorches the fluid.  Burned fluid isn't usually the cause of a problem, more like a symptom.
alexb
<3
+590|5932|Kentucky, USA

Dilbert_X wrote:

alexb wrote:

Dilbert_X wrote:

Its very hard to 'burn' fluid in a manual....
Overheat.
And how do you do that in a manual?
Low fluid, dirty fluid, old filter, bad clutch pack, bad torque converter, etc.
Reciprocity
Member
+721|6573|the dank(super) side of Oregon

alexb wrote:

Low fluid, dirty fluid, old filter, bad clutch pack, bad torque converter, etc.
in a manual?
Dilbert_X
The X stands for
+1,810|6098|eXtreme to the maX

alexb wrote:

Dilbert_X wrote:

alexb wrote:


Overheat.
And how do you do that in a manual?
Low fluid, dirty fluid, old filter, bad clutch pack, bad torque converter, etc.
Manuals don't generally have a filter or torque converter, or slipping bands which are what usually burn the fluid.
Русский военный корабль, иди на хуй!
VicktorVauhn
Member
+319|6384|Southern California

Mitch wrote:

its a very unlubricated feeling when shifting between gears. Would low trans fluid cause this?
Did you seriously ask if a lack of lubrication could cause an unlubricated feeling?

Punch your self in the balls, now.
rdx-fx
...
+955|6584
STEP 1: Make sure you have a proper level of gear oil & voodoo juice in your transmission. Then go with the below post.

Mitch wrote:

Ok so recently my 5-speed transmission has been shifting not smoothly. I dont want to call it a grinding sound, but its a very unlubricated feeling when shifting between gears. Also, its been harder and harder to shift into first gear. i have to hold it for a second before it pushes in. Its got a very metal uncomfortably sliding over metal feel.

What could this be? I looked under the shifter but thats all well lubricated so its something farther in. Would low trans fluid cause this? Please dont just say that because it sounds like a good answer. I havent checked the trans fluid yet. Supposed to be selling this car tonight and i dont want him to not buy because of this..

thanks
If it is running smoothly once it gets into gear, just being a pain about getting into gear, I'd say it was a worn synchro, the shift linkage or shifting fork.  Shift linkage is outside the transmission - shifting fork(s) and synchro rings are inside the transmission.

If you have a habit of resting your hand on the shifter while driving, it is possible you've put enough pressure on the shifter to wear on the shift forks over time. 

If it's the shift linkage, that can be thrown out of proper alignment (or plain broken) by hard, violent shifting.

If it's a worn synchro ring (the most likely, by the sound of it)
Here, better explanation here

Chrono404@Civic EG forum wrote:

TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS
Note: When Referring to a �Nicked� or �Beveled� gear teeth below, it will look like the following.


- Overview.
Honda manual transmissions have constant mesh gears for all forward speeds.
The locking mechanism for any individual gear consists of a synchro sleeve on the shaft which is able to slide sideways so that teeth on its inner surface bridge two circular rings with teeth on their outer circumference: one attached to the gear, one to the shaft (one synchro sleeve typically serves for two gears; sliding in one direction selects one transmission speed, in the other direction selects the other. Fifth gear has it�s own single-sided synchro sleeve). When the rings are bridged by the synchro sleeve, that particular gear is rotationally locked to the shaft and determines the output speed of the transmission. Transmission troubles are usually caused by the wear of these associated parts.

- When shifting gears, there is a �grinding noise�.
Why: This is normally caused by a worn synchro ring, or are shifting to fast. The grinding you hear are your gears hitting each other when they engage. Synchros are designed to match speeds between the synchro sleeve and your gear sets. If you shift faster than your syncho ring can match the gear speeds, they will grind. If the synchro ring is not replaced, the gears themselves will begin wearing.
You have several choices:
1). Slow down your shifting.
2). Double clutch between gears.
3). Replace the synchro for that gear set.
How to Fix:
You will want to replace your synchro ring for that gear set. If it grinds all the time, even with slow shifting, then it�s a synchro ring problem.

- While in gear while under power the shift lever pushes back against you.
Why: This is because the inner teeth on the synchro sleeve and that particular gear have worn to the point where their contact edges are no longer square, but beveled. The gears are pushing against themselves and are trying to disengage.
How to Fix:
Replace Gear set and synchro sleeve that has the worn teeth. The synchro rings should also be replaced as they are worn and no longer acting as a �clutch� between the gears by this point.

- Transmission sometimes pops out of gear, especially at slow speeds, or going up a hill.
Why: This is because the teeth in the gear sets are worn and "Beveled" to the point that they actually disengage the transmission.
How to Fix:
Replace Gear set, synchro sleeve and the synchro ring for that gear.

- When driving there is a �Roaring� or �Growling� noise from the transmission.
Why: There is a bearing going out in your transmission. Most commonly it�s a main input shaft bearing. It could also be one of the needle bearing sets on your Main or Counter shaft.
How to Test: With your transmission open and gear clusters out. Put your finger on your main input shaft bearing (pressed into the bell housing side) try spinning the input shaft and feel for resistance or roughness, also try rocking it back and forth. If it is not smooth or has a lot of resistance, it should be replaced.
To test the needle bearings, rotate the different gear sets on each shaft, if you feel or hear roughness, take apart your gear clusters (description here, under �REPLACE SYNCHRO/CHANGE GEARS�) roll your finger inside each �needle bearing cage� and feel for smoothness or resistance. If it is not smooth or there is resistance, the bearing should be replaced.
How to Fix: Replace bearing that is bad. Replacing a �main input shaft bearing� is discussed here.
To replace one of the �needle bearing cages� you simply install the new one in place of the old one. Use a diagram of the main and counter shafts before you take them apart, they are available here.
VicktorVauhn
Member
+319|6384|Southern California
If all gears are hard to get into, but first is hardest I would not be too surprised to hear it is a cable clutch with a stretched cable or a hydrolic system that needs bleeding.

Having your clutch not fully disengage would cause this.

First does not typically have synchros because the assumption is that the wheels are stopped, so the output shaft is not moving, and the clutch has been in so the input/counter shaft have pretty much came to a stop.
If the clutch does not fully disengage then the clutch is still going to try and turn the input shaft a little, and the car wont go into gear.
It will also make the synchros for other gears act against the friction in the clutch so it would be harder to shift.

I say just take it to a mechanic. Especially if this is the problem as you are definitely adding a bit of wear onto the clutch and synchro. I wouldn't try and adjust the pressure on the clutch if I were you , go to far in the other direction and your going to slip the clutch at times when its in enguaged and cause more wear there too.
Ultrafunkula
Hector: Ding, ding, ding, ding...
+1,975|6466|6 6 4 oh, I forget

I had a -97 Golf GTi which kept a nice crunchy sound when shifting from 1 -> 2 with higher revs. Mechanic took it for a spin but couldn't determine what the problem with it was without opening it. Since I didn't have the € or the interest to fix it, I got rid of the car pretty soon after that. Mechanic suspected the gearbox or the clutch. It was formerly owned by a woman so I reckon the clutch had got raped pretty well since the reverse didn't work too good either. Sad tho. It was a fun car to drive. Would've kept it if it had the original power left and the gearbox/clutch problem hadn't been there.
jord
Member
+2,382|6670|The North, beyond the wall.
If its that much effort putting it into gear consider coasting more in neutral.

Thas a pro tip.

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