BF2S Forums Tech: Open thread

Finray wrote:

.Sup wrote:

The thing is the res. is grayed out...

Screens? Have you right click > attatched?

sexecuti0ner wrote:

I'm about to buy some HDMI cables and I really don't know what features to look for, can anyone help me out?  I don't mind paying a bit more than standard to get better quality, but I don't want to pay $100 for monster cables.  And is Newegg the best place to buy them, or should I look somewhere else?

I think I'm right in saying that more expensive cables don't make a difference for digital signal. They do for anologue, but not HDMI or DVI. I'd check before though, because I might be wrong.

I think the only difference is in sheilded/unsheilded.

There's a difference when talking about good optical and coaxial cables.

Here's the screenshot:

Finray wrote:

.Sup wrote:

Finray wrote:

Screens? Have you right click > attatched?

I think I'm right in saying that more expensive cables don't make a difference for digital signal. They do for anologue, but not HDMI or DVI. I'd check before though, because I might be wrong.

I think the only difference is in sheilded/unsheilded.

There's a difference when talking about good optical and coaxial cables.

Here's the screenshot:
http://www.shrani.si/f/23/vR/2gH0xGia/untitled-1.png

What does the warning sign say?

"Before you change anything else be sure to click Apply first."

Finray wrote:

Hmm, I don't know. Is that your monitor or your projector? Maybe it's the lowest and highest resolution it can display, on the desktop at least.

Hmm I applied settings and now different (correct resolutions) are set for each monitor but on the projector screen only 1/4 of the desktop is seen. (Primary monitor on the left, projector at its native res. on the right).

You guys remember freezers epic projector?

I think he sold it cause he didn't save a large enough screen. lol

Reset your router maybe or flush dns? I dunno

Jenspm wrote:

done both, won't work :<

It's only on this one PC though

I had the same thing a day ago, my ISP was fucking around with the DNS. Went away after a day or so.

.Sup wrote:

Finray wrote:

sexecuti0ner wrote:

I'm about to buy some HDMI cables and I really don't know what features to look for, can anyone help me out?  I don't mind paying a bit more than standard to get better quality, but I don't want to pay $100 for monster cables.  And is Newegg the best place to buy them, or should I look somewhere else?

I think I'm right in saying that more expensive cables don't make a difference for digital signal. They do for anologue, but not HDMI or DVI. I'd check before though, because I might be wrong.

I think the only difference is in sheilded/unsheilded.

There's a difference when talking about good optical and coaxial cables.

There can be some difference between different coax cables for S/PDIF, but those require a really, really bad cable, as well as a rather poor receiver in the end for there to be any difference at all. Optical cables are even more digital; they work, or they don't work. If they don't work, you can't ignore it. HDMI is quite insensitive by nature compared to S/PDIF, and will work with pretty much anything.

And analogue low-level cables don't affect anything much at all within the range of frequencies used for sound as long as they're shielded properly and you aren't running half a mile of them. Analogue video cables are very sensitive in comparison.

Last edited by Freezer7Pro (2009-11-12 08:28:05)

Freezer7Pro wrote:

mcminty wrote:

Lol, dad didn't really do that. Yeah, it is the tweeter. My mate has figured out/assumed that the tweeter is made from paper, so it's not a large leap to assume that it's torn. If that's the case, is there any way to fix it? Or.. would the only recourse be to find a replacement part?

That's a dome tweeter, it is made from anything but paper. The things that can be wrong are pretty much as follows:

1. Bad solder joint or connector that's broken loose when moving them. This is easy to fix.
2. The capacitor that's high-passing the tweeter has deteriorated so far out of spec that it doesn't work at audible frequencies anymore (Older cap=lower capacitance/higher ESR=higher crossover frequency). This is easy to fix.
3. The tweeter has been used with a too weak amplifier, or has been played too loud and is simply broken. This is pretty much impossible to fix.

1 and 2. How exactly would one check those?
3. My dad wasn't the kind the play things overly loud, and it's the same amplifier that has always been used. Hopefully it's not simply broken.

How do you think I would go about taking the tweeter out of the enclosure? Undo the 4 larger screws around it, and it would just lift out?

fuck me, i've been waiting for this driver disc to burn, and i put a blank in the wrong drive.

it's gonna be one of those type a builds, i can tell already  . . .

So I undid those screws holding the tweeter in the enclosure, and took it out about half a centimeter.. then saw this stuff peeling off and thought I might put it back..

Think I'll ask my uncle about it... :S

Freezer7Pro wrote:

mcminty wrote:

So I undid those screws holding the tweeter in the enclosure, and took it out about half a centimeter.. then saw this stuff peeling off and thought I might put it back..

Think I'll ask my uncle about it... :S

It's the outer scews you want to remove. Then, it's just to lift it out. Might have to use a flathead scewdriver to jerk it out a bit.

That's what I did, lol. Under the outer part (which rests against the recessed edge of the enclosure) there was some sort of foil/paper. I assume it's to stop the tweeter and enclosure from rubbing against each other. That's the paper I didn't want to rip..

So what would I do once I pull it out. I assume the tweeter would be connected with wires of some sort, thus limiting where I can put it. And what exactly would I be looking for?

Also.. how long will you be on BF2s for Freezer? If I do this, I'll post some pics and get feedback as I go..

Freezer7Pro wrote:

You're gonna need a multimeter. Do you have one?

That's where my uncle would come in to the picture I remember having a small multimeter, years ago, but I don't think it works anymore. I'll have a look for it later.

burnzz wrote:

i've not installed XP x64 before - imma dual boot it with server 2003, any thing i should know b4 i take the plunge?
minimal software requirements, it'll mainly run as a server.

Good luck with driver support on XP64.  Solid OS, but shit to find proper drivers for it.  It was and is still my BF2 OS.  Go W7-64 instead.

nickb64 wrote:

Cable Company Internet or Verizon FiOS? Which is more likely better?

FiOS offers higher dl/upload speeds, but I've hard of people having issues with the FiOS modem/router thing, and know people who have the cable company's internet and love it.

what speeds?