You should try to look for the Lexus version that matches up to whichever year 4Runner you're looking at since Lexus is just Toyota's luxury brand. That's assuming you're not considering a new one because the starting MSRP on a current Lexus GX is 53K but you could probably find an older one much more affordably.Kimmmmmmmmmmmm wrote:
agree range rover is the top of the line13urnzz wrote:
i don't doubt that. we went to great basin, a national park not to far from here, and half the roads were high clearance accessible only. that's when i started noticing the ride height on different 4x4's . . .PrivateVendetta wrote:
Some of the best off roaders that you can use on the road daily though
I'm interested in a toyota 4runner type(for offroad) but i want the inside more lux
I would never buy a Lexus SUV, or any luxury SUV. Aside from a Land Rover of course.
If the women don't find ya handsome. They should at least find ya handy.
Buy a toyoto if youre thinking of a lexus, theyre exactly the same shit with a different logo.UnkleRukus wrote:
I would never buy a Lexus SUV, or any luxury SUV. Aside from a Land Rover of course.
Made in the same factory and all apparently.Cybargs wrote:
Buy a toyoto if youre thinking of a lexus, theyre exactly the same shit with a different logo.UnkleRukus wrote:
I would never buy a Lexus SUV, or any luxury SUV. Aside from a Land Rover of course.
My MiL has a Lexus RX. Nice car, fun to drive. I don't need anything with so many bells and whistles though.UnkleRukus wrote:
I would never buy a Lexus SUV, or any luxury SUV. Aside from a Land Rover of course.
"Ah, you miserable creatures! You who think that you are so great! You who judge humanity to be so small! You who wish to reform everything! Why don't you reform yourselves? That task would be sufficient enough."
-Frederick Bastiat
-Frederick Bastiat
pretty much due to toyota's mass production system. lexus just has flashier bells and whistles.Jaekus wrote:
Made in the same factory and all apparently.Cybargs wrote:
Buy a toyoto if youre thinking of a lexus, theyre exactly the same shit with a different logo.UnkleRukus wrote:
I would never buy a Lexus SUV, or any luxury SUV. Aside from a Land Rover of course.
Toyota just recalled 7.4 million cars. Won't be getting of my money any time soon unless it's an 87 corolla GTS or a mkIV supra.
Edit - Forgot 100,000 cars.
And article - http://jalopnik.com/5950504/is-your-car … ed-toyotas
Edit - Forgot 100,000 cars.
And article - http://jalopnik.com/5950504/is-your-car … ed-toyotas
Last edited by iceman785 (2012-10-11 06:34:54)
both of my toyotas aren't on the list
my 2001's safe
thats a lot of cars
Last edited by west-phoenix-az (2012-10-11 10:48:36)
Thought I had coolant in the plug well again, took the coil pack out, blew out the plug well with compressed air, realized the 3" extension wasn't long enough, went to go get a longer one, realized no more misfiring at 34 MPH hour anymore, wtf lol. Does dirt cause a spark issue or something?
probably loose connection or a intermittent failure
recall which means you take it to a dealership and get a part replaced (or in this case, special grease applied to the power windows switch). Yeah, big scare there.iceman785 wrote:
Toyota just recalled 7.4 million cars. Won't be getting of my money any time soon unless it's an 87 corolla GTS or a mkIV supra.
Edit - Forgot 100,000 cars.
And article - http://jalopnik.com/5950504/is-your-car … ed-toyotas
Do you recommend replacing the spark plug anyway then? I have three brand new Autolite Single Platinums sitting in the garage just in case. What's your opinion on Double Plats and Iridium plugs btw?
And it might also have something to do with that alternator I installed in March that I probably mentioned before. I'm fairly sure it's got a bad diode, the battery's dead in about a week if I don't drive the car and it idles strangely at stoplights(much worse if I have the A/C on), I checked the RPM with my uncle's Scangauge and it's only around 50 RPM less than the normal 600 for idle. If I knew better, I probably would've expected this from a 14 year old alternator from Florida. I specifically bought it off a wrecked Southern car because I didn't want it to be covered in road salt like all the other ones that came off of Police Interceptors from New England. I recently did some reading though and it turns out: The worst enemy of alternators is heat, so a Floridian alternator that's that old would be pretty likely to be fucking up. I'm gonna be getting a rebuilt Motorcraft one though when I have a spare $166(+ and then - the core charge), I hear good things about them
And it might also have something to do with that alternator I installed in March that I probably mentioned before. I'm fairly sure it's got a bad diode, the battery's dead in about a week if I don't drive the car and it idles strangely at stoplights(much worse if I have the A/C on), I checked the RPM with my uncle's Scangauge and it's only around 50 RPM less than the normal 600 for idle. If I knew better, I probably would've expected this from a 14 year old alternator from Florida. I specifically bought it off a wrecked Southern car because I didn't want it to be covered in road salt like all the other ones that came off of Police Interceptors from New England. I recently did some reading though and it turns out: The worst enemy of alternators is heat, so a Floridian alternator that's that old would be pretty likely to be fucking up. I'm gonna be getting a rebuilt Motorcraft one though when I have a spare $166(+ and then - the core charge), I hear good things about them
whats the car?
Actually, a big deal.KEN-JENNINGS wrote:
recall which means you take it to a dealership and get a part replaced (or in this case, special grease applied to the power windows switch). Yeah, big scare there.iceman785 wrote:
Toyota just recalled 7.4 million cars. Won't be getting of my money any time soon unless it's an 87 corolla GTS or a mkIV supra.
Edit - Forgot 100,000 cars.
And article - http://jalopnik.com/5950504/is-your-car … ed-toyotas
Similar, but Honda Cr-V. Mines did burn up and smoke.
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/10/0 … 45888.html
TOKYO, Oct 7 (Reuters) - Honda Motor Co said it would recall about 489,000 CR-Vs in Europe and the United States after finding rain water may enter the vehicles' power window switch on the driver's door, which could ultimately cause the switch to overheat and catch fire.
The Japanese automaker will be recalling about 220,000 CR-V sport utility vehicles in Europe, some 268,000 units in the United States and fewer than 100 in Africa, a Honda spokeswoman said on Sunday. All the recalled vehicles are from model years 2002 through 2006.
There have been reports of five switch fires, but no crashes or injuries have been reported related to the issue, the spokeswoman said.
2002 Crown Victoria LXwest-phoenix-az wrote:
whats the car?
Never been used by police, just hit 140K
How many miles are on the plugs?
How do they look?
What about the boots and springs? Are they old? Dielectric grease?
I'd put Motorcraft platinum plugs in it (standard service?)
How did coolant get in the plug well?
What's your opinion on Double Plats and Iridium plugs btw?
I think you'll pay more and not see a noticeable difference.
They may actually cause problems. Stick with original Motorcraft and make sure they have the correct gap.
You had a misfire, took it apart, put it back together and now the misfire is gone.
Probably a loose connection in one of the components (wire, connector plug, coil, spring, etc.).
What happens when you get the alternator tested?
I'd get a alternator from Autozone or O'reilly with a lifetime warranty. I've actually got more years out of them than OEM, and when they go bad you get a new/reman for free.
Idle problem can be caused by a few things. Do you have a manual for your car? It will usually point you in the right direction and explain how to test the possible suspects.
How do they look?
What about the boots and springs? Are they old? Dielectric grease?
I'd put Motorcraft platinum plugs in it (standard service?)
How did coolant get in the plug well?
What's your opinion on Double Plats and Iridium plugs btw?
I think you'll pay more and not see a noticeable difference.
They may actually cause problems. Stick with original Motorcraft and make sure they have the correct gap.
You had a misfire, took it apart, put it back together and now the misfire is gone.
Probably a loose connection in one of the components (wire, connector plug, coil, spring, etc.).
What happens when you get the alternator tested?
I'd get a alternator from Autozone or O'reilly with a lifetime warranty. I've actually got more years out of them than OEM, and when they go bad you get a new/reman for free.
Idle problem can be caused by a few things. Do you have a manual for your car? It will usually point you in the right direction and explain how to test the possible suspects.
I haven't taken the plug out yet but the last time I did was when I replaced that same #6 cylinder plug in May or June when I was getting a CEL for a misfire on #6, that plug and all others had already been replaced in December, I assume the coolant came from the new silicone coolant hoses I put in that weren't tightened enough and probably shot coolant out and into the nearby #5 and #6 cylinders at higher pressures. When I took the plug out then it had been completely coated in coolant from top to bottom, and when I blew the plug well out with compressed air beforehand, coolant was visibly coming out of it. I tightened the hose clamp some more hoping to stop this from happening again. The only other possible cause would be if I didn't install the intake manifold or its gaskets properly but if that were the problem, then I would expect to find coolant leaking into the engine valley but it's been dry ever since I installed the new manifold.west-phoenix-az wrote:
How many miles are on the plugs?
How do they look?
What about the boots and springs? Are they old? Dielectric grease?
I'd put Motorcraft platinum plugs in it (standard service?)
How did coolant get in the plug well?
What's your opinion on Double Plats and Iridium plugs btw?
I think you'll pay more and not see a noticeable difference.
They may actually cause problems. Stick with original Motorcraft and make sure they have the correct gap.
You had a misfire, took it apart, put it back together and now the misfire is gone.
Probably a loose connection in one of the components (wire, connector plug, coil, spring, etc.).
What happens when you get the alternator tested?
I'd get a alternator from Autozone or O'reilly with a lifetime warranty. I've actually got more years out of them than OEM, and when they go bad you get a new/reman for free.
Idle problem can be caused by a few things. Do you have a manual for your car? It will usually point you in the right direction and explain how to test the possible suspects.
This time however, only dirt came out, no coolant or mud. I have gotten some new Visteon(European Motorcraft) coil packs(which work great and have a little over 1K on them) since the last time I replaced that spark plug and I applied plenty of dielectric grease on the outside of all of them. The #6 coil was sealed very tight around the plug well today thanks to the grease, I was surprised anything was able to make it past and I'm glad I listened to all the recommendations instead of foregoing it. I think it's actually possible that the dirt and everything else that came out is just old stuff that was too wet and stuck together last time that dried up and brittled while it was sealed off by the new coil although I'm not sure if it had anything to do with fucking up the spark. I'll have to do a few another few test drives maybe to see if anything changes such as with the weather since it is also a completely clear day today whereas it has been mostly overcast or rainy for the past week or two
Btw, Autolite makes Motorcraft plugs so it's all the same stuff with different names and prices.
When I first got the alternator back in March, it tested perfectly at Advance Auto but my 1 or 2 month-old Walmart Everstart battery completely failed to the point of not being able to hold a charge only a day after I installed the alternator. It's a Ford 6th generation alternator I bought from eBay that came off a 1998 Lincoln Town Car from Florida that had been T-boned. It has a very tough time handling itself with the A/C and radio on at idle, it starts stalling the car which was never a problem with the old alternator. I changed the alternator because the old one had symptoms of bad bearings.
Last edited by _j5689_ (2012-10-11 14:59:32)
Autolite may very well make plugs for Motorcraft, but I'd still stick with the motorcraft plugs spec'ed for that particular car.
Just because they're made in the same factory, doesn't mean they're made to the same spec.
I've seen problems (poor performance) with people running plugs "better than factory" in their car. When switched back to oem, the problems went away.
Why is the alternator stalling the car?
Is it not producing enough power or is it putting too much drag on the engine?
Just because they're made in the same factory, doesn't mean they're made to the same spec.
I've seen problems (poor performance) with people running plugs "better than factory" in their car. When switched back to oem, the problems went away.
Why is the alternator stalling the car?
Is it not producing enough power or is it putting too much drag on the engine?
It's very hard to say why the alternator would be stalling the car, I think it's from not providing enough power though because the bad diode makes it fight itself over the power distribution by sucking it away as it charges, in addition to sucking it away from the battery itself when the car is off. I see the amp needle dip a little bit lower whenever the car stalls(thought it has never completely stalled out because of this so far) and as soon as I turn off the A/C, it gets better but it still does it with or without A/C on which leads me to believe that's not the culprit because rolling up/down the windows does the same thing also but to a lesser extent. It also seems to get worse the longer I drive the car at one time, presumably from more heat building up.
Another huge indicator from what I've read is that the alternator itself gets too hot to touch after the car has been on for only a few minutes. I thought this was normal, obviously engines and things near them get really hot but apparently the alternator itself getting too hot to touch is a telltale sign of a bad diode. Any truth to that?
It's not a really high output alternator at all, only about 135 amps and the Ford 6G is supposed to be a pretty well-ventilated alternator design
Another huge indicator from what I've read is that the alternator itself gets too hot to touch after the car has been on for only a few minutes. I thought this was normal, obviously engines and things near them get really hot but apparently the alternator itself getting too hot to touch is a telltale sign of a bad diode. Any truth to that?
It's not a really high output alternator at all, only about 135 amps and the Ford 6G is supposed to be a pretty well-ventilated alternator design
Last edited by _j5689_ (2012-10-11 21:24:56)
Why not get it tested again?
I can't put the old 4G alternator back in because I spliced on a new harness for the 6G. I do have a rebuilt 6G that I found in the junkyard that I haven't tested yet but I also don't know whether it's internally regulated or PCM-regulated, only the former will work in an 02 or previous Crown Victoria. Might as well go get it tested at least and that'll give me a chance to see if the misfire comes back
Well, the Crown Vic forums told me you can tell if it is internally regulated because it will have a grey plug vs a white one for PCM regulated. I have the grey plug so I think it will work. It also tested "Good" at Advance Auto
Now is there any possibility of the alternator damaging my battery? I've heard that running a shitty alternator will make the battery become accustomed to the low voltage and become used to it and a more powerful alternator overloads the battery cells and kills them or something like that. I don't know if I believe that one, I heard it from an Advance Auto associate that sounded like a bullshitter.
Now is there any possibility of the alternator damaging my battery? I've heard that running a shitty alternator will make the battery become accustomed to the low voltage and become used to it and a more powerful alternator overloads the battery cells and kills them or something like that. I don't know if I believe that one, I heard it from an Advance Auto associate that sounded like a bullshitter.
Not holding out too much hope for my car lasting long here, another guy I know bought a brand new Merc A-series 6 months ago, and the roads are so bad it's shaken parts loose and made the electrical connections loose as well
